jillybean, on 2024-July-28, 01:35, said:
In regards to throwing out yet another rule, “never preempt with a side 4cM”
Do you still teach this rule. to beginners with the caveat that this will change as their bidding evolves or do you teach preempts with side 4cM from the start?
David, you’ve taken a 2560 hand and are bidding it as a weak x55x hand.
What does your minimum 2560 1D opening look like?
I'm not sure if both questions are intended for me, but I'll answer both.
I teach what I think is standard: sound 6-card preempts. I will mention that I think it is good for your score to be more aggressive, and will emphasise that my personal style (in most situations, not just preempts) is very light, but I think it's important for beginners to have some context. Most of the field will be playing sound 6-card preempts, and knowing this is vital for defending against it. Also the large majority of their future partners will expect the same. If people want to change their methods to be more in line with my preferences I am more than happy to explain it, but I think it's going too far putting this in a beginner's course. Also, related, I think preempting is
complicated, and they simply would not be able to learn how I like to preempt in a reasonable amount of time. Much better to focus on other topics instead, though I do always recommend students to experiment and deviate from my explanations, in particular if this means they get to bid more.
The 2=5=6=0 shape (or, more generally, x=5=6=y and its cousin x=5=y=6) hands are interesting, and these are the only hand shapes where I'd consider opening 1
♥ ahead of 1m despite the length difference. The point is that if the opponents bid to 4
♠ (or even 3
♠), it is difficult to safely introduce our second suit having opened the minor. For example:
1
♦-(1
♠)-2
♣-(4
♠); ?
Now I have 4NT 'two places to play', and if partner picks clubs I can pull to diamonds, but if partner picks diamonds I never got to show that I have a fifth heart (4NT is compatible with, say, 0=4=6=3). The situation is slightly worse with clubs even:
1
♣-(1
♠)-2
♦-(4
♠); ?
4NT 'two places to play', but if partner picks clubs I am never showing my heart length. In fact, 4NT here is even compatible with 'please pick a minor in light of me having an unbalanced clubs hand with likely 3-card diamond support' - it doesn't even guarantee 4(+)
♥!
For this reason, with a 6cm and 5c
♥ exactly, I prefer to open 1m 'if I know what to do over 4
♠' and 1
♥ 'if I don't know what to do over 4
♠'. Having opened 1
♥ and bidding 4NT as two places over 1
♠ we will more often find the best strain at the 5-level, in my experience. In practice this boils down to both the defensive strength (if I can beat 4
♠ on power I don't really need to worry that much, also this makes it less likely that the opponents will bid it) and I like to use losing trick count here (normally I want around 6 (modified) losers or fewer for this unilateral action at the 5-level).
With all other 6-5 distributions I prefer to open the longer suit, there are fewer rebid problems.
Generally I don't like to discuss this topic much. A lot of people have strong opinions on how to bid 6-5 type hands, and not only does it often end up not mattering, also the hand type is sufficiently rare that even if it does matter when it comes up it won't have a significant impact on your score in the long run. I like to think that my style above aims to avoid the last guess at the 5-level, but of course a good fraction of the time when we open a light 5
♥6m type hand partner has the spades or is really strong, and then the inability to show exact shape can be annoying. One minor side benefit of this style is that the reverse auction 1m-1
♠; 2
♥-<something>; 3
♥ now still shows a decent hand, I've had a few accidents on this auction with a shapely 10 facing a misfitting 11 or the likes opening 1m.
Lastly, in unbalanced diamond structures as well as the most modern Dutch Doubleton structures I think there is room to show this hand type constructively on the 1m-1
♠ start, specifically 5
♥6(+)m 11-14 or so, though in the version of DD I prefer it is not included (I've played a more modernized version for half a year, it never came up). But I prefer to focus on the competitive aspect over the constructive auctions anyway, with a weak hand with so much shape.