Is this a reverse?
#22
Posted 2015-July-05, 16:54
steve2005, on 2015-July-05, 16:10, said:
I think bidding 2♥ is 65 with a big hand.
and doubling shows 4♥ at imps extra but at mp not really anything extra but may have if bids again..
it might be radical, or it might just be wrong. if you have kx Akx xxx AKQxx which bid would you make if you've removed all the double cards from your box?
#24
Posted 2015-July-06, 01:19
helene_t, on 2015-July-05, 12:38, said:
Something else (maybe off topic): you really should open 1nt with this hand.
My understanding is that you need 16+ HCP to reverse. Is this still the case after RHO has overcalled?
Could you explain why 1NT is right for this hand? With two doubletons it doesn't fit the standard guidelines. Is it because with 13 points you have to open but don't think the clubs are good enough to rebid after a 1♠ response.
#25
Posted 2015-July-06, 01:40
2♥ for me can be bid by 12 hcps if I am 6-5. Because 6-5 is a good indicator that the bidding can get high real quick and we may not have a comfortable bid in our next turn. But if I am bidding with only 5-4 then I must have extras for it.
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#26
Posted 2015-July-06, 02:44
helene_t, on 2015-July-05, 12:38, said:
Something else (maybe off topic): you really should open 1nt with this hand.
My understanding is that you need 16+ HCP to reverse. Is this still the case after RHO has overcalled?
Could you explain why 1NT is right for this hand? With two doubletons it doesn't fit the standard guidelines. Is it because with 13 points you have to open but don't think the clubs are good enough to rebid after a 1♠ response.
#28
Posted 2015-July-06, 04:21
blackshoe, on 2015-July-05, 13:27, said:
Whether a reverse shows extra values depends on what responder's first response shows. Consider the uncontested auction 1♥-2♦-2♠. Is 2♠ a reverse? Yes it is, by the definition. Does it show extra values? Well, that depends. If you're playing Acol, Standard American, or some other system where the 2♦ bid is at best forcing one round, it logically must show extra values. If you're playing 2/1 or similar, where 2♦ is already forcing to game, a reverse need not show extra values, and some pairs will agree that it does not, and some will agree that it does. The former will often say "that's not a reverse" or "we don't play reverses", but they're wrong. In either case, a reverse shows shape: a reversing opener will be at least 5-4 in his two suits, and the lower ranking will definitely be longer. If it's not longer, he would have started with the higher ranking suit.
That explains some of the differing guidelines I get on reverses depending on whether I am reading US or Acol sources.
If I have a strong hand - say 17 points, partner responds at the 1 level, and I would need to jump in order to reverse (needs 19 points as I am pushing the bidding to the 3 level, how do I show my partner the strength of my hand on my rebid if a No Trump bid is not suitable?
Partner may only have 6 HCP and four iffy spades.
But he may be stronger and game might be on.
#29
Posted 2015-July-06, 05:09
if you don't have enough to force to game and your suits are the wrong order for a reverse, you just make a simple rebid, 1.e. 1h-1s-2d. this just denies a game force, it doesn't deny 18 point points. partner should rarely pass here. most of the time he will go back to your first suit because you've shown 5 of them (yes you must have 5 of the first suit, even playing acol, because otherwise you would have a balanced hand and have opened or rebid no-trumps). he will do this even with more cards in the 2nd suit (e.g. 2-4) unless he is totally unplayable in the first, this is to keep the bidding open precisely because you may have considerable values or shape you've not yet been able to show yet. going back to the first suit when you have more cards in the 2nd is called false preference and is very common.
by the way, very weak hands with 3 card support are often better raising immediately. this is because in your example hand for partner, if the bidding goes 1h-1s-2d-2h, responder will normally only have 2 hearts, but the 3rd heart makes a huge difference to playing strength so opener won't know whether to try for game or not. you only lose out when opener is 44 in spades and hearts with a minimum - if opener is 45 you have an 8 card fit either way and if opener is has 4 spades with values to investigate/drive to game he can try 2S himself.
#30
Posted 2015-July-06, 05:19
Liversidge, on 2015-July-06, 02:44, said:
Well the club suit is not terrible but still describing it as a balanced hand seems quite accurate. The fact that you have queens in both of your doubletons weigh into it. With a small doubleton I could understand 1♣ since it may be better to make partner declare. But with this hand you are happy to declare yourself.
A 1nt opening shows partner that you can tollerate all suits. If he transfer to spades you are no unhappy. If opps interfere over 1nt, you are happy for partner to bid a 6-card spades or diamonds at the 3-level. Or maybe double opps for penalties (if you play doubles for penalty).
Basically, if you tell partner straight away that you have a balanced 12-14 then partner will be well informed and can make a good decision no matter what opps do. At the same time, 1nt makes it more difficult for opps to bid.
#32
Posted 2015-July-06, 05:55
#33
Posted 2015-July-06, 05:56
In the competitive auction, I think the simplest way of playing in Acol is the so-called competitive double. In this style, the reverse keeps its standard meaning while a double is usually a weaker hand that wants to contest the part score. I say usually because you also include some strong but awkward hands here, such as a big balanced hand with a small doubleton in their suit. A competitive double is thus essentially just a form of take out double.
If you were to play a double instead as extra values then I think it is right to play 2♥ as a form of negative free bid - a weak hand with natural hearts and a second place to play (either secondary spade support or long clubs) - as otherwise we have lots of ways of showing extras but no way of competing. I do not know anyone that does this though and the competitive double approach is the one I recommend to B/I players.
#35
Posted 2015-July-06, 06:39
msjennifer, on 2015-July-06, 06:22, said:
obviously this is rubbish, even if the OP did play support doubles, which he doesn't.
#36
Posted 2015-July-06, 07:02
Cyberyeti, on 2015-July-06, 05:36, said:
Way I learned it, a hand with a singleton, or a void, or three doubletons, is unbalanced. A hand with no singleton or void and two doubletons is semi-balanced, and a hand with no singleton or void and at most one doubleton is balanced. IOW the balanced distributions are 4-3-3-3, 4-4-3-2, and 5-3-3-2, the semi-balanced are 5-4-2-2 and 6-3-2-2, and anything else is unbalanced. Also balanced hands should bid NT ASAP, unless a major suit fit is found, and unbalanced hands should do so only as a last resort. Semi-balanced hands, well, it depends. I tend to treat them as unbalanced, unless my high cards are concentrated in the short suits.
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#37
Posted 2015-July-06, 07:57
In most modern systems reverses in non-forcing auctions promise both extra values and shape, typically also promising that opener will rebid unless responder bids game. After a response at the two-level, the reverse may not promise either extra values and after 1♦-2♣ may not promise extra shape.
In competitive auctions I think you still need extra values but should promise a rebid only if opener could have rebid his first below the level of the reverse. So after 1♣-P-1♦-1♠, 2♥ promises a rebid since opener could have bid 2♣ instead of 2♥; but after 1♣-P-1♥-2♦, 2♠ is a reverse but doesn't promise a rebid.
#38
Posted 2015-July-06, 10:12
One post referred to a support double and from what I can gather it shows 3 card support for responder's suit after a RHO overcall. I guess this means that you can't play both types of double and have to agree which one you will play.